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September 29th, 2009 by Leonard Standeley

There are many things to consider when selecting an aquarium tank. One of them is the size of the aquarium. To determine the ideal size for you, you have to know the kind of fish that you are putting in the aquarium and exactly how many of them. Also, try to find out how big your fish can grow. If you buy a fish without finding out its maximum growth size, you may someday find your aquarium tank too small or too crowded. Remember to choose the aquarium that will be big enough for all the fish at maximum growth size.

Although some fish species require larger tanks, there is a rule of thumb for determining appropriate tank size. For fish with an adult size of less than 4 inches, like tetras and guppies, allow one gallon of water for every inch of fish. For larger fish, water requirements can vary greatly between species, so do your research. A large cichlid requires a 55 gallon aquarium, and an angel fish needs 29 or more gallons, even though the adult sizes of these fish will never approach 55 or 29 inches.

Size of aquarium tanks vary from two and a half gallons to several hundred gallons. They come in various shapes too: rectangle, round, bow front, hexagonal or cylindrical. If you’re a beginner, you might want to buy the prepackaged kit that contains all that a beginner will need to start. This may include the aquarium outfitted already with filter, heater and light. Pick the smaller tanks for starters for minimum maintenance. Just remember, not too small or your fish will not have enough room to be healthy.

Aquarium tanks can be found in both glass and acrylic styles. Those that are glass are less expensive and widely available. The glass will not scratch, but it is heavy. Glass aquariums come in limited shapes. Compared to glass, acrylic is lightweight. The acrylic material allows for a wider range of custom shapes and sizes. They are easier to scratch than glass aquariums, however, and are usually the more expensive option.

A filled aquarium will weigh about 10 pounds for every gallon of water. So a large aquarium will really be very heavy. Bear this in mind when choosing your stand. You do not want to put it on anything that might collapse under the heavy weight. There are specialized aquarium stands built in metal or wood that could provide the necessary support for your aquarium. Some even have compartments for your aquarium supplies. Be sure also that your aquarium comes with a lid or a ‘hood’ and that it’s the right size for your tank.

Once you purchase your aquarium tank, place it in your bathtub or backyard and fill it with water. Add your heater, filter, and any other equipment, and plug these items in. Then, wait overnight, to test both the aquarium tank and the equipment. You don’t want to add fish immediately only to find out that the tank leaks or your heater does not work. Selecting the proper aquarium tank size and type, and making sure that it is ready for fish before adding them, can ensure that your fish will live a long and happy life in your aquarium.

September 15th, 2009 by Dustin Williams

If you want to have healthy fish, you need to have the right type of water in your fish tank. Many people who are just beginning to set up a fish tank don’t understand how important it is to test your water and treat it for any imbalances. You need to have the right water for your fish.

Different fish have different requirements when it comes to the condition of the water that they will do best in. It is always a good idea to test your water for the pH, gH, and kH levels and try to get fish that thrive in water similar to the water that you already have. This will mean less work for you when it comes to fish tank water treatment.

Tap water tends to be the best type of water for your freshwater fish tanks, but it does need some treatment before it can be used. Chlorine is not good for fish, so you need to remove the chlorine from the water before adding it to your tank. You can use a conditioner as a way to try to correct any imbalances in your water and add beneficial substances. This type of fish tank water treatment is common. It will get rid of the chlorine. You can also leave tap water sitting out for 24 hours to get rid of chlorine, though this will not correct any other imbalances.

If the pH of your water is not at the right level, or is not remaining stable, you might need to do a fish tank water treatment in order to correct this. Sometimes this can be as simple as mixing a small amount of spring water in with the tank water. Other times you will need to treat whatever is causing the pH fluctuation.

You also need to make sure that the kH, or concentration of carbonates and bicarbonates, in your water is at the proper level. These help to buffer the water so that the pH stays more constant, otherwise as time goes on it will get acidic. There are a number of different options you can use for fish tank water treatment if you have high or low kH levels, including various chemicals you can purchase at the store.

You gH is the general hardness of your water. Some fish prefer harder water and some prefer softer water. You can use peat moss to soften the water, or add rocks to help harden the water. The simplest thing to do is get fish that suit the water that you already have so you don’t need to do too much treatment of your water.

Dustin Williams is a writer and hobbyist who has kept aquarium fish for several years. He has learned much about owning a home aquarium from reading books and personal experience. To learn more about proper fish tank water treatment please visit HomeAquariumSupplies.com.

September 14th, 2009 by Bill Marshall

The aquarium is your own version of the sea world. You want to make your fish live in harmony with its environment, even though they are out of the wild. You use aquarium lighting not only to add beauty to their world but to also for better living conditions. There are different types of lights to choose from, and having these lights would depend on what you want them to do.

Aquarium lighting serves a variety of purposes, and one of these is for aesthetics. Lights can be used to make the tank look better and to highlight certain areas of your aquarium. Another reason is enhanced visibility. With illumination, different types of the fish can be seen better. They also look better when viewed from outside the tank. Aside from that, it would be easier to spot abnormalities or problems with the fish when sufficient lighting is present.

With visibility, you also consider aesthetics, but it serves a more practical purpose. With more lighting, different types of fish are more visible and easier to observe. This makes it easier to see if the fish is acting strange or have a disease. This allows you to detect and address possible issues early on before they get worse.

The more important issue is the type of fish and creatures that you have on your tank. This is true if you have corals, reefs, and other invertebrates. Since these creatures need light of specific intensity and wavelength, having the right amount of light ensure that these will survive in your tank. You can also use aquarium lighting to reflect the natural environment of some types of fish. For example, you can use bright lights to simulate the heat of the sun for tropical fish. Though not really essential, this kind of lighting can help new tropical fish adapt to their new environment. Also part of the consideration is the number of fish you have and the size of your tank.

Other considerations would be the size of the tank, the number and type of fish you have in the tank. For example, you may want to put in lights that mimic sunlight for tropical fish. Now that you have an idea of some of the reasons for installing aquarium lights, here are the types of aquarium lights available for you. These differ in the lights that they provide, the purpose that they serve, and the advances in lighting technology.

Incandescent lights cost less compared to fluorescent lights. When setting up a fish tank for the first, these are the kinds of lights you’d likely consider because of budget considerations. The disadvantage is that these lights heat up fast, break down easily, and consume more electricity.

Speaking about better light and energy efficiency, fluorescent lights fit the bill. These lights last longer, consume less electricity, and give out brighter lights. Aside from that, fluorescent lights also come in different types so you have more choices for your aquarium lights.

New technology can offer better lighting and more durability together with energy efficiency. Power compacts are a good example of this. These lights are a level-up of florescent lamps. These also present the same advantages of fluorescent lamps, but gives out light of higher intensity. These lights are also energy-efficient, durable, and less costly to maintain. They usually come in U-shaped tubes, while you can also find models that have coils on them. There are different types to choose from, so you’re not limited in your selection.

Power compacts are considered upgrades from your fluorescent lamps. Power compacts produce light of higher intensity, and also have the durability and energy efficiency of fluorescent lamps. These lights also come in different types and wavelengths, so if you need a specific wavelength, you can find one for your needs. These lights are usually U-shaped, while you can also find some that are coiled.

Guss Fitzgerald is a hobbyist who has kept aquarium fish for many years. He has gained much of his knowledge of the various types of aquarium lighting from studying books and his own personal experience. To find out more about keeping a fish tank please visit MarineDepot.com.

August 25th, 2009 by John Stoner

If you have looked at Koi pond filtration systems lately you know there are many choices. Well it is no different when it comes to the filtration media that is available. I get asked all the time about what is the best media to use.

There are two types of filtering to be accomplished – mechanical and biological. All media performs one or the other or both. They are both required for your Koi pond so what do they do? Well the mechanical filtration media removes large particulate waste material. Biological filtration fosters the growth of beneficial bacteria that breaks down pollutants in the water.

For biological filtering Japanese matting is one of your best choices. It is made from thousands of tiny fiber strands formed into a sheet or mat. The only thing to remember is not to use for mechanical filtering. The large waste particles will clog it quickly. You end up cleaning it very often and it will finally fail.

Another good type of biological filter medium is bacballs. They are easy to work with and clean. Again, don’t use them in the early stages of the filter system as they too may become clogged and require cleaning often. Bioflow and flocor are plastic pieces that are light weight and easy to clean and good for biological filtering. Aquarock is another good media for biological filters.

If you don’t have a vortex chamber as your first stage of filtration, you will want to use brushes in the first stage to trap the large solid waste material. Brushes are easy to work with and clean. You can be sure they will need frequent cleaning depending on the waste load of your Koi pond.

So what is a good setup? Well the answer might be different depending on who you ask but here are some suggestions. If you have a pump-fed multi-chamber system without a vortex you would want to consider having brushes in chamber one, followed by flocor or bioflow in stage two, followed by Japanese matting in stage three. If you have additional chambers consider adding matting, foam or Aquarock.

Regardless of what your exact setup is, there are many options available. Do a little homework and see what is available. Alternatively the setup I have described will serve you well.

August 20th, 2009 by John Stoner

Have you ever wondered why so few Koi ponds are heated? Well heating a Koi pond was an expensive process and few Koi owners could handle the cost. Also Koi ponds were usually found only in the warmer climates where heating was never considered necessary. Today Koi are being exported to all parts of the world where heating is much more a necessity. In addition the cost of heating Koi ponds has become much less expensive and well within the reach of many more owners.

My advice to most Koi owners is unless you live in the warmest of climates, consider heating your pond. By heating we’re not just talking about keeping it ice free in the winter. You want to maintain a minimum temperature of 54 – 57F. This will reduce dangerous fluctuations in temperature and allow your Koi to feed all year long.

Remember that most of the fish that being imported into the colder climates have not been exposed to low temperatures in the cold months. Heating could prevent many problems and safeguard the health of your fish. You’ve made the investment, why not protect it.

There are basically two ways to heat your Koi pond. The simplest to install and most efficient is the in-line electric water heater. The heater is fitted into the return pipe after the external pump if one is used in a gravity-fed system. You should figure about one kilowatt of electrical power per 1,000 gallons of water. Depending on the ambient temperature of the water this might vary. I always suggest getting a heater a little more powerful than you need so that it won’t have to run continuously in the coldest months.

The other alternative is the heat exchanger. These are more expensive to put in but make up for it in operating costs savings. The heat exchanger is basically a radiator that that pond water is pumped through to warm. The radiator is fired by gas, oil, or electricity.

Whether or not you heat your Koi pond, it is always a good idea to cover it in the cold months. Just don’t make it to air tight. The best covers have zipped openings to allow gases that build up to escape and to allow access to the fish if needed. The Koi pond heater is fast becoming a very popular option for ponds. In fact, some would argue that it is no longer just an option but rather a necessity especially in the colder climates.